Street Trends and High Fashions

1. Zoot Suits
A pegged wide leg trousers, high-waist, and long coat are a symbol of a Zoot suit. Zoot suit was invented during late 20’s. and it was famous among African-American, Filipino-American, and Maxican-American. People who wear a Zoot suit could be implied that they were rebellion; they declared of freedom, or self- determination. During World War II, there was a restriction to tailor Zoot suits because it cost a lot of fabric, which was wasteful.
John Galliano introduced the checkered snakeskin zoot suit for his Spring-Summer 2002 collection. He perfectly combined a conservative and fashionable of zoot suit. On the other hand, Hermes introduced dark grey zoot suit, which was worn with a big coat. Even Hermes zoot suit looks more traditional, but it presents the classic of zoot suit, which has not been out of fashion.

LA Police Officer

Hermes Fall 2008

John Galliano Spring-Summer 2002

2. Teddy Boys
Teddy boy started from the youth in England during 1950s because they did not like functional clothing. They preferred Edwardian style. Teddy boy style is a knee-length draped jacket; single breasted, and contrasting lapels and cuffs. Typically, dark colors were chosen for Teddy boy style.

Currently, Teddy boys style has slightly different from the past. For instance, House of Holland presented a Teddy boys suit in old-school fashion style for Autumn-Winter 2008 Collection. Tom Ford also designed Teddy boys suit in bright colored palette.Teddy Boys 1950s
House of Holland Autumn-Winter 2008 Tom Ford Spring-Summer 2009

3. Beatniks

Beatnik is one of famous fashion trend during late 1950s to early 1960s; Lucy Housman was named as an explorer of the real Beatnik style. Beatnik was introduced after World War II from America to Europe. Beatnik is an anti-materialism culture, which is characterized by ones inner-self. The primary items of this style are turtleneck or oversized sweaters, black and white colors and leotards. The icon of the Beatnik style is Edie Sedgwick because of her leotards.
The key of Beatnik style is less is more. There are many designers inspired from Beatnik style. For instance, Miu Miu Autumn-Winter 2005 collection, which introduced a sophisticated oversized black sweater and knee-length shorts with a beret, which is a key item of Beatnik style. Additionally, Yohji Yamamoto Autumn-Winter 2009 collection also was inspired by Beatnik style. The Japanese designer designed roomy clothes, voluminous trousers and tailored coats in dark colors to present Beatnik style.

Beatnik

Miu Miu Autumn-Winter 2005 collection

Yohji Yamamoto Autumn-Winter 2009 collection

4. Mods
Mod was originated in England during late 1960s. Regarding to the prosperity after the post war Britain, youths did not have to help family finances. They could spend their money, as much as they wanted, to buy clothing. Consequently, it caused consuming pleasures. Mod fashion usually was luxury tailor clothing, bowling shoes, and colorful.

Laura Poretzky interpreted mod look to Abaete Autumn-Winter collection 2007 by using zippers, color blocking and patent leather. Jovovich-Hawk Autumn-Winter 2008 did not presented a traditional mini-dresses, boy-cut plaid suit, flared legs in mod style, but she mixed with the rock ’n’ roll style in order to create up to date mod clothing.Mod 1960s
Jovovich-Hawk Autumn-Winter 2008

Abaete Autumn-Winter collection 2007

5. Hippies

The movement of Beatnik culture around 1950s preceded hippie or Counter Culture. Hippie started in the mid 1960s in order to rebellion modernity because the goal of Hippie culture is peace, love and freedom. The movement of Hippie is non-violent; the best example of Hippie’s movement is during the Vietnam War by the slogan said ‘’make love not war’’. Hippie’s lifestyle shocked liberal society, such as psychedelic music, sexual freedom, and drug use. A famous hippie is Harry Hay, who is named to be a founder of the American homosexual movement. The outstanding look of hippies is long hair, ethnic, and floral clothing.

Regarding to this unique style, both Anna Sui and Y & Kei inspired this Hippie style to their collection. Anna Sui chose Hippie style by presenting the variety of ethnic style, such as Cow boys, Indians, Settlers, and Soldiers for her Spring-Summer 2005. In contrast, Y & Kei, a couple Japanese designers, presented their Spring-Summer 2008 in the concept of urban hippies, such as using silver metallic fabric instead of showing obvious floral fabric.Harry Hay

Y & Kei Spring-Summer 2008


Anna Sui Spring-Summer 2005

6. Disco
Disco fashion was introduced in 1970s. Usually, disco clothing was made from shimmered, shinny colors, or metallic fabrics because they are easy to reflect with disco lights in clubs. Additionally, the ideal of fitness was famous because people had to wear tight and fit garments in order to show off their figure when they went to hang out.

This Autumn-Winter 2008 collection of Lacoste could present winter clothing in disco style by pairing winter colored blocking dresses with a pair of long disco socks. On the other hand, Rafael Lopez Spring-Summer 2003 collection was inspired by 70s disco glam. For instance, he introduced the parachute silk jumpsuit on a model, who had frizzy disco hair.Disco 1978s

Rafael Lopez Spring-Summer 2003 collection

Lacoste Autumn-Winter 2008 collection

7. Punk
Punk was introduced in England as Renaissance street fashion around 1977 because of working class. They were anti-urban youth street culture because they were not wealthy. Punk, at the first time, they had to cut their old clothes to make their designed garments in order to get an attention from people. The basic items of Punk are black leather, chains, destroyed vests, T-shirts with graffiti or crave print, and studs.

Alexandre Herchocovitch presented her Autumn-Winter 2006 collection by mixed another garments with punk items. Therefore, she played around black looks, strong shoulder military style coat, and a skull buckle to show the strongest looks. Giles also presented the punk-fetish by connecting with pop-up rose.Punk 1970s

Alexandre Herchocovitch presented her Autumn-Winter 2006 collection

Giles Spring-Summer 2008

8. Hip Hop

Hip Hop culture was emerged around late 1970s to seize freedom of African-American, Afro-Caribbean and Latino American. Hip Hop fashion was originated by African-American youth in many places, such as Los Angeles, New York and Chicago. The basic items are, bright color clothing and leather bomber jackets. John Galliano Autumn-Winter 2005 collection presented modern hip-hop attitude and Missoni Spring-Summer 2010 collection was inspired by the hip-hop nomads.Beastie Boys 1987

Missoni Spring-Summer 2010 collection

John Galliano Autumn-Winter 2005 collection

2 New Street Trends

1. Draped pants
Sari is an Indian female garment. It is a long strip cloth, which is wrapped or draped over body. Typically, Sari is wrapped around the waist and leaves another side over the shoulder. The sari is worn upper a petticoat and a blouse.
Balenciaga Autumn-Winter 2009 collection was inspired by draping of India Sari and focused on draping of skirt and trousers by using satin fabric. Givency Spring-Summer 2010 collection presented volume hip draped trousers, which is an interpretation of Sari.

Sari

Balenciaga Autumn-Winter 2009 collection

Givency Spring-Summer 2010 collection

2. One shoulder

Sbi is a Thai female top garment, which is wrapped or draped over one shoulder and fastens around a waist by a belt. Sbi could be worn single layer or two layers, or upper a blouse. Women wore Sbi for more over four hundred years, but since King Rama VI, people are hardly to wear it. Currently, women will wear Sbi for occasional events, such as wedding ceremony, formal traditional ceremony. Both Max Azria and Lanvin Spring-Summer 2009 collection and presented a bandage dress, which is seamless and open one shoulder.SbiMax Azria Spring-Summer 2009 collection

Lanvin Spring-Summer 2009 collection

Historical Artistic Styles.

1. Egyptian
Most of Egyptian artworks were symbolic and often found from tombs and monuments; consequently, those artworks would convey the story about the death life and gods. The characteristic of Egyptian dress is a white gown, which is decorated by ornamented shoulder strap. The white gown is made from a lone piece of linen, and drape and wrap by a waistband. Typically, people used stones, faience, which is the first ceramic material was invented, and gold to decorate their shoulder strap.

According to the unique and elegant style of Egyptian dress, John Galliano has inspiration to design his Autumn-Winter 2009. He chose sheer fabric to emphasis feminine look and made bias cut dresses, which have richly embroideries and embellishments to add elegance look.Egyptian artwork

John Galliano Autumn-Winter 2009 Collection

2. Greek
As we have known that Greek has reputation about architecture, art and sculpture throughout the ages. Many artists, such as Michael Angelo, inspired by Greek art and sculpture. Most arts and sculptures are made from various materials, such as stone, marble, and limestone. Additionally, most artworks were conveyed about Gods, heroes, and cultures.
During Greek-Roman period, there are two main garments, which are a peplo or chiton, and a cloak. A peplo or chiton is a large rectangle fabric, which is wrapped around a body and fastened on a shoulder by a pin or brooch and has floor length only for women. A cloak, is made from heavy fabric, such as wool, is slanting draped over a shoulder or symmetric both shoulders.
Bottega Veneta Autumn-Winter 2009 collection has been inspired by Greek goddess gown. The designer used a soft fabric in neutral color tone to made pleat long dresses. Additionally, the designer spun the fabric over shoulders and waist in order to fasten fabric.

Greek Sculpture

Bottega Veneta Autumn-Winter 2009 collection

3. Byzantine
Most of art during Byzantine period were mainly created for the Eastern Orthodox churches because of the fell of the Western Empire. As a result, artworks tended to look somber and dark color tone. One dimension and flat figure on mosaic artworks were preferred, which effected to any garments. People preferred fully ornamented garments.
Givenchy Autumn-Winter 2009 collection was inspired by this period. The designer decorated his designed clothing with golden, jewelry and stones, and chose luxury fabrics in basic color tone as black and white in order to support the ornaments.

Byzantine Artwork

Givenchy Autumn-Winter 2009 collection

4. Renaissance
Renaissance arts focus on perspective and human beauty; consequently, most Renaissance artworks look realistic. The dominate of clothing in this period is extravagant embellished of neckline. Christian Dior Spring-Summer 2006 Couture collection was inspired by Renaissance era. The designer minimized the lavish embroidery of neckline by creating an highly neckline and use crucifix-festooned to decorate his designed dresses.

Renaissance Painting

Christian Dior Spring-Summer 2006

5. Art Nouveau
La Pyramide Inversee is a pyramid founded in front of the
Musee de Lourve in France. The Lourve pyramid was built in 1993 by a group of architectures, such as Pei, Cobb, Freed, and partners. The structure of this pyramid is mainly consisted of laminated glassess and stainless steals.
Gareth Pugh Spring-Summer Collection 2007 inspired by the structure of pyramid and chose specific fabric to create a solid structure on the garment. The designer also chose vinyl fabric to emphasis the detail of innovative dress.

Gareth Pugh Spring-Summer Collection 2007

La Pyramide Inversee

6. Surrealism Art
Surrealism art is one kind of art that expresses a combination of conscious and unconscious realms. Salvador Dali, a Spanish painter, is a well-known surrealism artist, who can combine realistic and his imagination of unrealistic through his paintings. One of his masterpiece paintings is One second before awakening from a dream caused by the flight of a bee around a pomegranate.
Christian Lacroix Spring-Summer Collection 2009, the designer completely matched one practical designed garment with another impractical designed garment. Additionally, the designer chose vivid color palette that show the perfect of color ratio.

One second before awakening from a dream caused by the flight of a bee around a pomegranate.



Christian Lacroix Spring-Summer Collection 2009

Genealogy of T-Shirt

A T-shirt, a common and basic garment, is a typically short sleeve, button less, and collarless top garment, which is made by a lightweight fabric. Apparently, the T-shirt was an undergarment because it was worn under other tops garments, such as a shirt or a jacket.

A Simple white T-shirt

The US Navy first created a T-shirt approximately around late 19th century to the early 20th century during the Spanish-American war in 1898. They often wore white cotton T-shirt under their jacket uniform because it is a tropical climate. Consequently, they would like to take off their jackets, but leave their T-shirt, while they were working.



The US. Navy in Spanish-American War


It is named T-shirt because of its shape, which looks like a T alphabet. Because of the durable, easily fit, and inexpensive of a T-shirt, it was popular garments among various industrial workers. Likewise, after Charlie Brown, a cartoon character, who usually wore a T-shirt was published around 1950 and Marlon Brando wore in A Streetcar Named Desire movie, a T-shirt became a common garment for everyone. Ultimately, a T-shirt was worn as an outerwear and came to be a fashionable garment.


Charlie Brown

A Poster of A Streetcar Named Desire


Currently, the status of a T-shirt is not only a fashionable garment, but also a political and social statement. For instance, in 2008, H&M launched the AIDS charity campaign by sale T-shirt, which is printed some statements about preventing AIDS. Some people screen their T-shirt in order to express their notion to support some politician. Additionally, some businesses manufacture their own T-shirt to advertise their products. For example, Singha Beer company, a Thai beer company, makes T-shirts, which is screened the name and logo of Singha Beer and give to their clients and sale representative to promote their products.

H&M AIDS T-shirt Collection 2008

Singha Beer T-shirt




Baby Phat Obama Campaign 2009

Interestingly, styles, patterns and fabrics of manufacturing t-shirt have been dramatically changed and innovated from the past. The length of historical T-shirt covered a top torso, but currently, the length of T-shirt is various and depends on fashion trends. We also could see many styles of T-shirt, such as a tie-dyed T-shirt. Additionally, there are many tops garments that were developed from a T-shirt, such as a tank top and A-shirt.



A Tie Dye T-shirt




Zara T-shirt Collection 2007


As a long journey of a T-shirt that I stated above, we could conclude that a T-shirt would be one of our classic garments for everyone.